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'Rosa X fortuneana Lem.' rose Reviews & Comments
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Initial post
12 NOV 23 by
sam w
Although I often see it listed as Zone 7, I have a fortuniana plant that has come easily through two winters that cut my tea roses back to the ground.
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Not quite an error re: Robert Fortune and his discovery of 'Fortuneana': "circa 1840"
Fortune did not arrive in China until July 6, 1843. These are the dates of his visits to China and the Far East: 1843-45, 1848-51, 1853-56, 1858, and 1860-61.
Though he lists roses among other plants, nowhere in his book Three Years' Wanderings in the Northern Provinces of China (1847) does he describe any rose. In his A Journey to the Tea Countries of China (1852) the three roses he describes do not fit the description or likeness of 'Fortuneana'. But Lindley gives the date as 1850.
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#1 of 2 posted
28 DEC 19 by
jedmar
The 1840 date of one reference is definitely incorrect. We'll change the date to Lindley's 1850 until further Information comes up. There should be a mention somewhere in the Journal of the Horticultural Society.
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The 1983 reference may help
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Thornless forms of Fortuniana certainly exist - selectively propagated by some nurserymen who use this rose as a rootstock, but the majority of plants I have checked are quite prickly.
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#1 of 2 posted
16 MAR 18 by
bonbon
Billy West I will check my bush out for prickles. It is quite vigorous and at present is spot flowering in March 2018..
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#2 of 2 posted
26 MAY 19 by
mmanners
In Florida, no matter how much you select for lack of prickles, the new plants will always make some. But the number of prickles varies widely through the season. In late spring, the plant tends to send up huge new canes, and these are often completely unarmed. Then as the weather turns hotter and the plant makes smaller, thinner branches, they will be dense with prickles. So we (and commercial Florida nurserymen) do select in favor of the smooth cuttings for understock cuttings, from among the prickly canes. I'm posting a photo of that wonderful late-spring growth. I'm about to take the season's cuttings!
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Reading through member comments here, I agree this is a wonderful rootstock plant for warmer zones--7 and above. I haven't seen anyone comment on just WHY it is so great. Here's my attempt. I have grown roses grafted on it in zones 8b and 9a(Coastal Alabama years ago and now southeastern Louisiana). About a third of my roses at this point--not including minis--are grafted onto fortuniana. (I have not yet learned the art of grafting onto Fortuniana; otherwise I would have more). The first year or so, people new to Fortuniana will wonder what all the fuss is about. But by the third year and beyond, they'll understand. Among the small handful of commercially used rootstocks, this is unrivaled. I saw a positive comment from southern California. But here on the Gulf Coast, particularly in Florida, there is a specific destructive pest that Fortuniana is ideally suited for handling well. It is a soil nematode that multiplies over time if plants it likes to feed on are available. Roses are a feast for this (root-rot) nematode. In Central and South Florida particularly, roses plants on their own roots or other rootstocks typically start out fine, by year 4, 5, or 6, most languish and keep declining, often dying off over winter or from fungal diseases because of their nematode-weakened state. Not roses on Fortuniana. This has a uniquely hyper-fibrous root system so vigorous that the nematodes cannot keep up with it. It lacks the thick tap roots of Dr. Huey or even the medium size thick speghetti-type roots of Multiflora, which is why it will benefit greatly from being staked the first two or three years. But what you get for that trade-off is not only strong resistance to that nematode, which admittedly doesn't live everywhere; you get much more ability of the roots to take up nutrients, as it is those little white, fibrous, feeder roots that are the lifeline of roses. Fortuniana roots are virtually all feeder roots.
Additionally, because they lack long tap-roots, they are far better a choice for growing in large pots than are the California standard Dr. Huey budded roses. Potted or in-ground, roses grafted onto Fortuniana, by year three start to pull ahead of their counterparts in size and number of branches and blooms. I have done experiments growing the same rose on its own roots, or Dr. Huey, and then on Fortuniana. Fortuniana, with rare exception, is up to 50% larger. those exceptions are the occasional varieties that have great roots of their own. I have grown the AARS winner Hybrid Tea Paradise on Dr. Huey, own-root, and now Fortuniana. Honestly, that rose is fantastic on its own roots; one of the best of the 20th Century hybrid teas in that sense. But even it is performing somewhat better on Fortuniana.
To repeat, Fortuniana is a slow starter, fussy to graft onto, and not quick out of the gates, but for long-term performance in warmer climates, it can't be beat.
ps: I have been a renter for most of my 40+ years growing roses, so have often been limited to growing roses in pots. For that reason, I shied away from growing any enormous roses. I am excited to have my own house finally, as of a year ago, and I have started a baby Fortuniana I rooted from a cutting of a sucker growth last fall. I am eagerly awaiting this to grow into an enormous shrub in my side yard. My plans are for it's own lovely spring flowers, to be a scaffold for Clematis flowering vines, and to supply me with plenty of cuttings on which to practice grafting. Who knows, I might get the hang of that art. ;)
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That was very interesting, thank you.. some great observations even if not relevant to everyone... roses grafted onto Fortuniana seem to have many advantages...
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I would add, Mike, Fortuniana demands a great deal more heat to propagate, bud and push than many other stocks. When I lived in Los Angeles, I had no difficulty rooting and budding Fortuniana and the buds pushed like gang busters once knit. After moving to Santa Maria, on the Central California Coast, where the temperatures are frequently twenty to thirty degrees cooler than Encino, in the San Fernando Valley, where I had lived, I have abandoned Fortuniana completely as it isn't hot enough for it to root nor push here. I can root Banksiae, bud it and buds push here. I can root Huey, Ralph Moore's Pink Clouds and many others. I can bud to them and the buds push once the stocks are headed back, but not Fortuniana. It's too cool for it to be successfully used as a stock for propagation here. As a cultivar, it grows and flowers splendidly, and due to the climate, it can flower almost all summer long, just as all the Banksiaes do here. The roses I have budded to Fortuniana do well here, I just can't get it to root nor buds on it to push once the stocks are headed back here and the only logical reason is the lack of heat.
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