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I'm hoping someone might be able to help with a question I have about blind shoots. I know that some cultivars are simply more prone to this than others, but is there some sort of treatment I can implement to avoid blind shoots and small flower buds falling off prematurely? Is there some particular element or nutrient in any fertiliser that can help with this? Is underwatering/overwatering contributing?
Any help is appreciated.
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#1 of 5 posted
27 DEC 22 by
 Jay-Jay
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You might take a look in the Glossary. Left column under blind shoots.
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Also read up on downy mildew, but I am not sure if it contributes to bud drop as well as leaf drop.
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#3 of 5 posted
27 DEC 22 by
Jay-Jay
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Over here, these critters cause those blind shoots:
- Lampronia morosa (a good article over this-one in Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lampronia_morosa) do not forget the prefix of that link.
- Anthonomus rubi, the strawberry-blossom weevil or strawberry blossom weevil.
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The late Bob Melville advised me that the timing of winter pruning affected the number of blind shoots a rose produced as it came away after pruning. We were discussing Hybrid Teas in Perth. He said that in his experience, pruning too early in our mild winters led to many more blind shoots. (Perth tends to get its coldest weather in late winter, early spring.)
As a general observation, I have noticed more blind shoots in roses that are stressed for any reason. Here it is usually heat stress when we have a retic drama that allows the soil to get very dry.
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In the US blind shoots are often caused by the tiny insect known as midge, which will devour a growing tip, leaving a burnt look (a black charred look, but small, where there once was a growth tip) where they have done their damage. Midge can be a pesky critter which is difficult to truly eradicate - even with the use of various chemical remedies.
Somewhere I have read that a blind shoot should be treated the same as a flowering shoot in terms of general care. Prune it down like you would a stem that flowered. Blind shoots can be rooted as well. Other than lack of bloom the blind shoot does no harm and if you leave the foliage on it will do its part to produce food for the bush via photosynthesis.
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From what year do shrub and climbing roses planted with bare roots begin to produce large numbers of roses?
My climate is dry subtropical and in my case since I planted them two years ago they have produced few or no roses.
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#1 of 4 posted
19 NOV 21 by
jedmar
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It depends on climate, soil and understock used. Some start immediately, most need 2-3 years, others more than 5. In your climate you might also do better with Tea, Noisette and China roses rather than Hybrid Teas or Old garden Roses, which need a period of cold in winter.
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Dear Jedmar
Here in winter it usually reaches around 11 or 12 degrees Celsius on some days. Would that be enough for a cold winter period? Here the climate becomes more humid and colder between mid-November until the end of March, although it usually varies according to the year.
I guess I'll have to wait another year then. I hope to be lucky with Variegata di Bologna as it belongs to the Old Roses, although some nursery websites recommend Bourbon roses for hot climates.
Kind Regards
Alejandro
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#3 of 4 posted
21 NOV 21 by
jedmar
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I believe some roses need temperatures lower than that. I have heard that in Florida temperature drops to minimum 5 degrees in winter and that is not enough for old garden roses to florish. Maybe you could check what other members are growing in Florida. Look at Gardens/List by Location/USA/Regions/Florida.
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You might try 'Old Blush' if you can get one. I have a house in Belize which is slightly more southern that the Canary Islands, but also in the temperate zone. 'Old Blush' is quite common here, a former English colony usually labeled "English Rose". It does bloom on and off all year and grows in sand reasonably well.
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Is it bad practice to pinch out roses in the spring. My David Austins are bolting out of the ground and some of them look like they'll be a bit leggy. The sparrows have already nipped a few and it occurred to me that it might encourage a bushier growth. This is their first year BTW
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I remove almost all flower buds from my roses (which are generally young cutting-grown Teas) the first year, to encourage them to make roots and leaves rather than flowers. They generally end up well-covered to ground level. The impact may be less with more advanced budded roses but I don't think it would harm them.
Many Austin roses get much taller in warm climates than in the UK.
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Thank you Margaret, as these are 3 yrs old when sold I'll just pinch the leggy canes then.
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I would say it's bad practice and totally unnecessary to pinch out buds on first year grafted roses, in the UK.. just let them flower and enjoy your roses.. that's what we buy them for... to make them bushier, all you need do is prune them back after they've had the first flush of blooms..
Pinching out buds is best left to own root roses grown from cuttings, that need to develop a good root system.. we don't get those here, unless we've propagated them ourselves...
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Thank you marionena, yes these are all grafted and three years old , well I suppose they are in their 4 year now.
I'm not advocating pinching them out for the whole season, just to promote more stems on those that look 'leggy'. Of course if this does produce new stems then I'll be happy to let them flower. It looks like they are producing double stems beneath the one the sparrows have nipped out. I'll have to find a way to stop the sparrows though, it could get out of hand. I suppose, to a sparrow, the new juicy red shoots look like worms ????.
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Sparrows are feeding off the aphids on your rose buds... unfortunately, along the way, some get broken off, even whole canes can be bent down and broken by sparrows...
Well, of course it's your garden and your roses.. but I gather they are recently planted first year in your garden, regardless of how old they are.. and I can only reiterate that there's just no need to pinch out buds.. it's just not done here.. we prune to shape in winter/early Spring.. and then again after the first flush of blooms... this promotes the bushy growth in DA roses... however, I also advocate light pruning for the first couple of years, and just allow them to develop their own characters.. they are not hybrid teas, but shrub roses..
Sorry to sound a bit dogmatic, I just don't want you to lose your blooms, by doing something you really don't need to be doing.. best wishes, and hope you have a good season..
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Not dogmatic at all, I'm grateful for the advice, I didn't think about the aphids as it's still quite cold here and I haven't seen them yet, hopefully my roses will have filled out before our birds go on the rampage. We've got a few sparrows but lots of various tits.
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I've got stacks of aphids.. they seem to have been around most of the winter too.. I don't spray anything here and just let them get on with it... I'm yet to receive my sparrow invasion but when I do I know I'll lose various buds and stems to their acrobatics...
Just on this issue of pinching out... one plant we should do this with are the group 3 clematis viticella varieties.. they respond dramatically to pinching out their growing tips repeatedly...
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Initial post
19 JUL 08 by
WRP
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I purchased a Darlow's Enigma rose last spring. (from a nursery) This bush is very full and healthy but it has never bloomed. This rose bush has had all the luxuries that roses enjoy...plenty of water, fertilizer, systemic fungicide/insecticide, sun. Can anyone give me some suggestions to encourage blooms?
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